Painting the Outback in Oils

Painting the outback.

Ayer’s rock, or as it is known “Uluru” is not only one of Australia’s major landmarks but also it is one of the most sacred and important aboriginal sites. I travelled to the “Red Centre” of Australia in the Northern Territory couple of years ago, and visited some of the most beautiful places I’ve been to so far.

In this painting I wanted to show the vastness of the land with this massive sandstone monolith occupying a dominant position in the painting. A big sky will complement the subject.  

Above is one of the reference photos I used for this painting. I also prepared some sketches (to scale with the canvas) and then I chose the one that I liked most. Following that on my notebook I did some planning of the colors to use and of the various color values. To do this I use a value comparative which helps me a lot to judge my values correctly. My aim is that during the first phase of the painting I get as much as possible close to the end product in what has to do with values and color. Then when the canvas is entirely covered with paint I will be able to judge by comparing one color to the other next to it and adjust accordingly.

For myself the first stage of the painting is the most important one and most labour intensive. By the end of this stage I will need to have all the canvas covered with paint and establish shapes and form of most of the elements. I also try to get as close as possible to the right tones and values. By the end of this stage I want to see most of the painting only lacking detail and minor adjustments. Since the sky plays a very important role in this painting, I decided to start from the sky by blocking in the clouds leaving empty spaces for the sky. For the sky I usually use an old big brush so that I can literally scrub the paint all over. When painting the sky I try not to paint it as a solid object always keeping in mind that I am painting air. 

The next step was to block in the foreground and the rock itself. The main rock formation was painted using a mixture of cobalt/ultramarine blue, white and Quinacridone Magenta. Using a cloth I softened edges and lifted paint of to expose the underpaint while establishing where to place the highlights in the next step. 

 The next stage was to start adding the details. Using various mixtures of white with burnt sienna, cadmium scarlet, alizarin, yellow ochre and ultramarine blue, I gave more form and detail to the ground at the front and middle parts of the painting, giving the impression of cracked ground washed away by water. More form, details and highlights were added to the trees and bushes all across the painting. Using a warm and cooler version of the base mixture described above the details and highlights were added to Ayer’s Rock. Reflected light from the sky was painted using a mixture of white with ultramarine blue.  
Gradually I always do some minor adjustments and add more details during the first couple of weeks until I see that there is nothing else to add. 

Last Lights on Tumut Valley

Step 1 This is one of the most recent paintings showing Tumut Valley in NSW. What attracted me to paint this scenery was the game of warm light and shadows through the whole view. The linen board was primed for oil painting and underpainted with a tint ultramarine blue and burnt umber. Materials used: 60 x 30cm linen board Brushes: Long Flat brushes 12, 10, 8, 4, 2 liners (0, 00), Very long filberts (2, 6) (Art Spectrum Series 1100KLF) Odourless mineral spirit +  Liquol (Art Spectrum) Color palette: Titanium and zinc white, French Ultramarine Blue, permanent alizarin, viridian, sap green, burnt sienna, raw sienna, , raw umber, Flinders red violet, Australian red gold (Art Spectrum), Cobalt blue deep, yellow ochre (Norma Professional), Van Dyke brown, ultramarine rose, cadmium yellow light, medium, deep (Masterclass), cadmium orange (Old Holland) and lemon yellow (Michael Harding)

Under-painting (Blocking in) I wanted to start off this painting over a very dark underpainting, so using a number 12 flat brush I blocked in the sky with a mixture of Flinders red violet and French ultramarine blue. Cobalt blue was used to block in the background mountains, adding permanent alizarin and a touch of yellow ochre to the closer mountains. The middle ground including trees was blocked in with a mixture of French ultramarine blue, permanent alizarin and yellow ochre. The foreground is the darkest part and so I used  a mix of French ultramarine blue and Van Dyke Brown for the ground and Van Dyke Brown with viridian for the trees. Step 2 The next step was to start giving more form to the relatively abstract underpainting. Using number 10 and 8 flat brushes I started adding more clouds using titanium white mixed with touches of permanent alizarin, lemon yellow and yellow ochre. Dark areas in the clouds were darkened with ultramarine blue, alizarin and raw umber. I gave importance to create contrast between the darkest and brightest parts of the clouds using complementary colors. The distant sky was lightened up using a tint of cerulean blue with lemon yellow added to the left hand side of the painting, the side from where light is coming. The mountains were given more shape by darkening the shadows. The highlights in shadows were painted using a tinted underpaint. The areas lit by the sun on the mountain were painted with a tint of lemon yellow and a touch of permanent alizarin + yellow ochre. Finished painting Mid- and fore-ground A mixture of ultramaine blue and yellow ochre was used to paint most of the ground and trees in the middle-ground. The ground is darker and cooler (with the addition of more ultramarine blue) as you move to the right of the painting since light is coming from the left. Parts of the underpaint was not painted over to give the illusion of shadows, that at that time of the day are very long. The mixture was tinted slightly as one moves into distance. The areas that are hit directly by sunlight where highlighted with the addition of yellow ochre and some lemon yellow in the mid ground. The trees were painted with darker shade of the same color used for the ground. For the foreground used the same base color of ultramarine blue and yellow ochre with the addition of a warmer yellow for the highlights. I used different mixtures cadmium yellow deep, medium and light or/and Australian red gold with sap green, sap green and burnt sienna or permanent alizarin. The details were added gradually over a number of days, thus allowing the previous layer to dry. For most of my painting I used liquol which dries very quickly but for the final highlights and details, paints were used without the addition of any medium. During each session I continued to enforce the dark shadows and adjusting the saturation, hues and values of the highlights.

'Plein Air' painting at Fingal Bay NSW

Above: Fingal Bay NSW

Above: under-painting done on location

Last Sunday was an excellent day to go to the beach and since for the last couple of days I was at Port Stephens, then I headed to Fingal Bay. It was early morning but the day was already hot and so I sat down and prepared my painting kit at a location overlooking the beach at Fingal Bay.

After choosing the scenery I started my underpainting using acrylic paints. Using cobalt blue I drew a very rough sketch consisting of the main shapes in the painting. Then I started putting layers of thin paint while adding more details. Cerulean blue and titanium white were used for the distant part of the sky while cobalt blue was added to the upper part and corners. Titanium white with a touch of alizarin red and raw sienna was used for the cirrus clouds. A mix of titanium white, cobalt blue and touch of raw sienna was used to block the most distant land mass, adding some more blue and alizarin crimson to the mid land mass (Shark Island). The closest land mass was blocked with ultramarine blue, vermilion and yellow ochre. A mix of alizarin and ultramarine blue was used as an underpaint to the sand.

The water was painted using ultramarine blue and touch of raw sienna with white at the background adding more blue to the middle water together with turquoise. More yellow ochre was added to the shallow water closer to the shoreline. The sand was painted using white and yellow ochre plus a touch of burnt sienna.

In the sun the acrylics were drying up in a matter of seconds and so I immediately started adding some more details and highlights to the distant land. The highlights were done by adding white to the base color and then adding naples yellow and touch of orange to the sunlit areas. The vegetation at the closest land mass was done using ultramarine blue, cadmium yellow and red gold. I briefly sketched in three sea gulls that at that time landed on the beach. However the day became too hot and so almost impossible to paint with acrylics. So I decided that I will take the sketch back to the studio to finish it.  I will post the finished work very soon.

Painting with acrylics and oils

Today I am writing about a recent painting I finished of another Australian landscape.

I started this painting from the above reference photo, which I took while vacationing at snowy mountains very close to Thredbo, almost two years ago. This photo has very nice background mountains but the foreground is not that inspiring. However I decided to keep the basic shapes while modifying the colour scheme and adding gum trees to the foreground. Using charcoal I did a rough sketch of the main forms to define the background, middle and foreground. I added a farmhouse at the far end of the middle ground.

I started the painting by executing an underpainting with acrylic colours to establish the basic forms as well as the mood of the painting.

I decided to paint an early morning scene and so I chose a pallette of warm oranges and yellows and cool blues for the background. I then removing some trees and the road that was originally winding uphill in distance. The advantage of using an acrylic underpainting is that it dries very quickly although you can achieve the same result if you had to dilute oils with mineral spirit.

Next step was to go for a layer of oil colour to enforce the shadows and mid-tones in the painting. Colours used were titanium/zinc white, cobalt blue, ultramarine blue, alizarin crimson, cerulean blue, yellow ochre, cad orange, burnt sienna, Australian red gold, virmillion, burnt umber, sap green, viridian,cad yellow light.

The final stage was to add the details and highlights, using both brushes and pallette knives. The final product can be seen above.

Linear perspective - Composition 2

 

One of the major challenges when painting a landscape is to create a sense of space and distance, i.e a 3D image on a 2D surface, i.e your canvas or any other support. This can be achieved by understanding some basic principles:

1. Nearby objects appear larger than distant ones. One has also to look at the relationship in size of each object as they recede into distance. To acheive this you can draw a series of lines as shown in the image below.

As shown in the above image, I first drew the horizon line which has to be set at eye level. Every object will recede into distance to a single vanishing point (VP) on the horizon line. In this sketch I drew a road with some trees on the side. As you can observe the width of the road decreased as one looks into distance in a proportional way until it reaches the vanishing point. Looking at the trees on the side, one can also observe that they decreased in size but remained in between the two lines of perspective pointing toward the vanishing point. Besides that the distance in between the trees (a) is greater at the front.Trees at the back appears to be closer to each other.

The above is a single point perspective, however you can also have a two point perspective where there are 2 vanishing points on the horizon. 

The above figure shows an example of 2 point perspective. The same as in the previous example you will need to draw the horizon line which in this case it is further up in my painting and hence it gives the impression of looking from above. Then I marked to vanishing points on the horizon and constracted all straight lines to create the front building leading to these two VPs. If you add windows or doors you need to do the same. I decided to place my light source to the left and hence the side of the building in shadow will be on the right. This creates an 3D impression. If you add other buildings on the street to the right you will need to follow the same perspective lines leading to VP2 while constructing new ones towards VP1.